Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. A simple remove & clean will remedy this . Is this normal ? Do you have a PCV on the engine? Definitely not 90. your IAC is at zero. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. It's the same one that Holley puts in their Sniper Master Kits and I've never heard anyone with anything but good things to say about it. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. Any help would b great. Thank you in advance for your help and providing us rookies with your (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. :-). Sniper EFI Idle Tuning. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. If you datalog the Sniper ECU and see multiple overlapping traces for the same signal, you likely have RF-induced problems. Price Point: $$, EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. The person I bought it from said he never could get it to run for more than a few seconds. I will a, Scott has been very helpful and informative on guiding me through the purchasing and installation of my terminator X max system. Thanks. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. It will need to see it again and again. First thing I would check Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. back to trying to zero down an idle. (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) Handheld shows plenty of fuel so I dought it's an issue there. I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. All times are GMT-6. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? Do please let us know what you find out! And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. Supports up to 650hp with Four 100 Lb/Hr Injectors! such high fuel pressure. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. Hi Chris. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to About two minutes after I get it set at 850 & 5%, it has progressed to 100%. Pw. Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the That is the IAC hold position. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news Thanks for all your help Chris! Your mechanical advance will naturally change the timing a bit but it should be fairly close. it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. Thank you for any advice. The first 250-300 miles were amazing as the Sniper EFI worked flawlessly. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. A few, however, get tangled up getting the idle control working just the way they want. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. My Sniper is 99% great! I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. You'll be amazed at how much of this just "goes away" when you drive it enough. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. Maybe Holley will add Fuel Prime Multiplier to Terminator X later. Glad to hear that things are working well! The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. Reducing that a bit will help. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. Should I just disable idle timing control? Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) That is not something I'd ignore. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. IAC Pos.% = 0 If your fuel pressure regulator has failed (and they often fail by blocking return fuel and maxing your fuel pressure) then it could lead to rich idle, particularly until your engine gets up to temp. This will go a long way to improving your fuel map without manually adjusting the acceleration enrichment. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. Except at idle. My car will now start when its cold, but after about 30 seconds the idle drops down and begins to run like crap. I was 20 minutes into a drive yesterday when all of the sudden the RPM increased not commanded. any ideas? nothing stays steady. Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup Is there away to lean the idle out? That is the only way to fly. I then saw you guys have an awesome little gauge that can hookup inline to the snipers existing fuel feed?? The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? I recently install a sniper efi. I did notice that when I thought I had it set Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. What can I do? In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. The second thing to realize is that even after you get it just right, you need to keep an eye on the IAC number and reset the idle if it gets outside the 2-8% range when idling when warm. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. Ensure all your sensors are displaying proper values. Thanks again for your insights! After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. I think that your Sniper system is working fine but would definitely check ouf the fuel pump. I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. See these. We have never had that problem with any of the units that we have shipped. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. Cl. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. Nice to meet you. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. Don't be surprised if one or the other is slightly open. School's out for spring break this week though so I'm covering for employees on vacation. Capability Range: Advanced % = 49 What would cause the idle to faulter like that? So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. If I put the truck in park it comes down to idle. Duty Cycle% = 3 How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. It then idles up from 750 to 1100. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. He thought that something was wrong because when he set the idle 50 RPM below his target the resulting IAC postion was far too big. This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. As I would slow down for a stop sign or stop light, the car would run really rough and the idle did not want to come down. Only show this user . After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. I looking for your expert opinion. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) Ive also used another snap on light to confirm. I would gladly engage with you to solve this but ultimately you are going to need to go through whomever you purchased the system if a warranty return is in order. Try it! I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. Please advise. We do that but most places don't. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. I have tried your 10-step idle adjust and ive adjusted the idle curve. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. I have not heard of this. It won't take much! Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. That is certainly not normal! Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. knowledge with the sniper efi setup. You should get a light spray evenly distributed in all four barrels. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. The RPM would increase for no reason. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. :-). That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. I think you'll be all set! I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you.

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